Sailing Sevilla: "The Largest Natural Harbor in the World"--Four Days in Portsmouth steeped in mariner history

The lightship Portsmouth

Aircraft carrier under repair

The Good Shepherd in Tiffany glass, St. John's Church Portsmouth

Glen in Mrs. Sheler's Garden

When we first arrived at Tidewater Marina, we were really ambitious. Glen changed the oil; I did laundry and cleaned the head. We got dressed up and headed for Old Town, a short walk from the marina.

The town dates back to the early 18^th century although people back as far as men with Capt. John Smith in 1608 had petitioned for permission from the Crown to build a town at Portsmouth. Norfolk, across the Elizabeth River, was ahead by about a century. Adm. Cornwallis had wanted to keep his army at Portsmouth, but was ordered to Yorktown, from which there was no escape. Portsmouth became a great shipbuilding town. At the time of the Civil War, there were 9,000 residents, 1,500 of whom worked in the shipbuilding industry. The Confederacy used the shipyard to build refit the sunken Merrimac into the CSS Virginia, one of the“ironclad” ships doing battle with the Union. And the Great White Fleet of Pres. Theodore Roosevelt began its 9,000 mile voyage of peace around the world from Portsmouth Harbor after the great exposition of 1908 . The first sail frigates, the first ironclad, first battleship and the first aircraft carrier were built there. It was said to be the largest natural harbor in the world.

We looked at many historic homes and the profusion of spring flowers growing in their yards. One resident, Doreen Sheler, told us about her wonderful neighborhood and invited us into her “secret” garden to see the results of her gardening talent. She told us to be sure and stop by the Episcopal church of St. John on the corner of Washington St., and ask to see the Tiffany stained glass window of the Good Shepherd there. I tried to do it justice in a photo, but the reality is way better than any picture.

We also saw the Portsmouth Naval Shipyard Museum with local and naval history, and the Lightship Portsmouth. The first lightship was built in 1822 here.

Since our two day visit extended into a four day because of worsening weather on the Bay, we had a chance to visit the Nauticus museum of marine science, a ferry ride across from the marina. The Battleship Wisconsin is also on display there. NOAA exhibits feature “Science on a Sphere,” a dynamic six foot globe with 3 D animated images of oceans and atmosphere.

For nightlife, we spent a fun evening at the Commodore Theatre, a 1945 movie house, beautifully restored to its former grandeur. The interior has been redesigned to include tables, upholstered chairs, little lamps and phones on the table which you use to order dinner, wine, beer, etc. We saw, “The Conspirator”, a movie about the trial of Mary Surratt. Since Glen and I are Civil War history buffs and have read Manhunt and lived years ago near in Prince George’s Co. near Surrattsville, we enjoyed it a lot. Thank you, Robert Redford, for directing it.

Sevilla at Tidewater with a skyline view of Norfolk

There were two murals on opposing walls of the Commodore Theatre. This one depicted the growth of the South from discovery to Emancipation with Lincoln leading the people. The other depicted the growth of industry, particularly shipbuilding, in the area. The ambient lighting was beautiful everywhere, particularly in a stylish ladies' room.

Tomorrow, it looks as though the big winds and 3-4 foot seas are dying down somewhat. So we are going to head up the Bay to Fishing Bay, come hell or high water. Hope we won’t live to regret saying that. We’ll wait until the office opens at 8:00 to check the weather one more time and receive a credit for our 5^thnight of marina fees.

It looks as though our Easter will be a sunrise service on Fishing Bay.